Artificial grass installation in Boise depends on what goes underneath it. The infill that sits on top of the turf, the base material below it, the way water moves through both, and the care taken at seams and edges determine whether your yard will look right, drain properly, and last. This guide walks you through each layer and the decisions that matter, so you can understand what you are paying for and what questions to ask any turf installer you contact.
Whether you are installing turf in a residential yard, a pet area, around a pool, or on a commercial property, the foundation and infill work the same way. You should finish this guide knowing why base prep is not a shortcut, what infill does, and what a real turf spec looks like in writing.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material you spread on top of artificial grass after it is laid. It serves four purposes: it props the turf fibres upright so they look full and natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight to keep the turf from shifting, and it helps water drain through the system. The most common infill is silica sand, a fine, angular mineral that is inexpensive and does all four jobs adequately. Coated sand is silica that has been rounded and often coloured to match the turf or to reduce glare and heat. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralises odours, making it popular in pet turf and dog run installations where urine control matters.
Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, combine a mineral base with additives designed to reduce bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in hot weather. These products cost more than plain silica but are worth considering in Boise's 100-degree summers, especially in full sun or in areas where pets spend hours outdoors. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tyres, is standard in sports fields and playgrounds because it provides cushioning and shock absorption, but it is rarely specified for residential yards. When you get a quote, ask which infill is included and why, and request the type and amount in writing.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is measured in pounds per square foot. A typical residential turf installation uses between 2 and 4 pounds per square foot, depending on the turf product, the pile height, and the intended use. Pet areas and high-traffic zones often need the higher end of that range. The infill amount matters because too little infill is a common shortcut of cheap installations: the turf looks thin and flat, the backing gets exposed to sun and breaks down faster, and the fibres do not stand up properly. Too much infill, conversely, can make the turf feel heavy underfoot and can slow drainage. The right amount is specified by the turf manufacturer and by the installer based on the product you choose.
You should always ask for the infill amount in writing before work begins. A reputable turf installer will include it in the spec sheet along with the type of infill and the turf product itself. If an installer cannot or will not give you this number, that is a red flag. Infill is not a detail to discover after the job is finished.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers under artificial grass are as important as the grass itself. Start by removing the existing lawn, old turf, and roots down to bare soil. If you have an old turf installation that is failing, all of it comes out. Once the area is cleared, excavate to a depth that allows for a proper base layer, typically three to four inches of free-draining material. Before laying base material, lay a weed barrier fabric to prevent weeds from growing up through the infill and backing. The barrier lets water through but blocks root growth.
On top of the weed barrier, install a base of decomposed granite or crushed rock, sometimes called base rock or crushed limestone. This material compacts firmly and drains well. Compact it in thin lifts (usually 1.5 to 2 inches at a time) using a plate compactor, not by hand or with a roller. Proper compaction prevents the base from settling unevenly later, which causes dips, puddles, and odour problems. Once the base is compacted and level, you may add an optional draining underlay or pad, especially in pet areas, on patios, or in play areas where comfort and odour control matter. Finally, the turf is laid on top. On concrete or balconies, skip the excavation and base rock. Instead, lay a draining underlay or pad directly on the slab, ensure edge drainage so water does not pool, and never glue turf flat to a concrete surface that cannot shed water.
Base Prep on Boise Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Boise soil is typically silty and sits over a layer of caliche, a dense mineral hardpan that forms in the high desert. This combination drains poorly. When water hits caliche, it stops, and puddles form. If your yard already has drainage problems, standing water after rain, or a musty smell, those problems will get worse under turf unless the base is excavated and graded correctly. Base prep means digging out the poor soil, removing roots and debris, and replacing it with material that drains freely. The excavation depth is usually three to four inches, but it depends on how much native soil you need to remove and how much fall (slope) the yard needs.
Grade the base with a gentle slope away from your house and away from any pool or patio so water moves off the property rather than settling. Use a plate compactor to compress the base material in lifts. An uncompacted base will settle over time, creating low spots where water pools and where odour concentrates in pet areas. If your yard has a real water problem, where water stands for days or where the water table is high, we will recommend that drainage be fixed first, or we will decline the job. Artificial grass is not a solution to a wet yard; it is a finish material that works best on a properly prepared base.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf drains through its backing and through the base below it. The backing is either perforated, with small holes punched through it, or fully permeable, woven in a way that lets water pass through the entire surface. Drainage rate is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH per sq ft). A typical residential turf backing drains at 5 to 8 GPH per sq ft, meaning an inch of water on a square foot of turf will drain through in minutes. Pet areas and areas that see heavy use or frequent rinsing often specify a faster-draining backing, sometimes 10 GPH or more. The faster the drainage, the less likely urine will pool or odours will linger.
However, a fast-draining turf still fails on a base that does not drain. If the base is compacted caliche or clay, water will sit on top of the backing and eventually seep into the seams and under the edges. This is why base prep comes first. For patios, balconies, and other hard surfaces, an underlay or drainage pad is laid on the concrete to lift the turf and allow water to flow to the edges and off the slab. Ask your installer for the backing type and drainage rate in writing, and ask how the base will be prepared for your specific soil and slope. If your yard is naturally wet, discuss drainage solutions before the turf goes down.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a careful installation from a quick one. Seams are joined with seam tape and a polyurethane adhesive applied to both sides of the backing. The grain direction of the turf pile must be aligned across the seam so the colour and texture match when you look at it from above. A visible seam or a seam that looks darker or lighter than the rest of the turf means the grain was not matched or the tape was not applied correctly. Nails or staples hold the turf down around the perimeter, spaced about 6 to 8 inches apart and driven through the backing, not through the visible pile. If nails are too far apart, the edge will lift when the turf expands in heat or when someone walks near it.
Edges are finished with bender board, a flexible metal or plastic trim that secures the perimeter and gives the yard a clean line. Turf cut at pavers, pool decks, and patios must be cut tight so water drains off the hard surface rather than pooling under the turf. After all seams and edges are finished, power brooming is used to stand the fibres upright and spread the infill evenly across the surface. A turf that has not been power broomed looks matted and flat. These details take time and skill, and they are what you are paying for when you choose a turf installer who cares about the finished product.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, ask for a written specification that includes every detail of the installation. The spec should name the turf product and fibre type, the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimetres, the backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth, whether a weed barrier will be used, how the base will be compacted, how seams will be finished, how edges will be trimmed and secured, what cleanup and haul-off are included, and the workmanship warranty period. A one-to-three-year workmanship warranty on the installation is standard; it covers the installer's work, not the manufacturer's warranty on the turf itself.
A written spec is not a sales document. It is a contract that protects you and holds the installer accountable. If an installer cannot provide a detailed spec before starting, or if they tell you the details do not matter, you should call someone else. This is the document you will refer to if something goes wrong, and it is the proof that you got what you paid for. For a free on-site estimate and a detailed spec, contact Boise Turf Installation at (208) 567-4498, and we will walk through every layer and every choice for your yard.